Lipsticks

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A study conducted by Psychology professor Richard Russell found that as women age, the difference in redness between the lips and the surrounding skin decreases (as well as the luminance difference between the eyebrow and forehead) study source. A great way to enhance the contrast between the lips and face and hence look younger & more attractive, is to use lipstick.

Lipstick normally contains esters/oil, waxes, pigments/pearls, film former, and preservative. It can also contain fragrance and even sunscreen. The ester/oil provides a base for your formula. The wax gives structure. Pigmentary TiO2 can be included for coverage. Pigments that can be used are iron oxides and most lakes. Ultramarines and iron blue are not used in lipstick. As I have mentioned before, pigmentary dispersions are a lot easier to use than making your own pigment grinds. First, it is less work as the dispersion is already made and second, you can great great intensity from the high concentration of pigment that is already in the dispersion. Also, because the pigment particles in the dispersion have been milled to be made small, they will have increased gloss. Lips have very sensitive skin so if the pigments are not properly milled and dispersed, it will feel unpleasant on the lips. If you cannot use dispersions then I suggest using surface treated pigments so you can still reap the benefits of better color development. Treated pearls can also be added to lipstick for shimmer.

Microspheres can also be added to lipstick. The most common types of microspheres used are silica, polymethyl methacrylate, and polyurethane. They can enhance slip and texture as well as help fill in lines. One of the big advantages of using microspheres in lipstick is to increase payoff. If you are aiming for a matte lipstick, a higher percentage of oil absorbent microspheres will get you there as well as choosing oil and waxes that aren't as oily.

Film formers are commonly added for non transfer and long wear. If you want to make a lipstick with exceptional non transfer then you will need to use a lot of volatile in your lipstick. A film is left on the lips after the volatile has evaporated. There are pigmentary dispersions in volatile base. When formulating a volatile lipstick, explosion proof equipment is required. This type of lipstick has some disadvantages: it dries out lips, has poor shine, and a air tight component is needed.

There are some lipsticks on the market that contain water. These lipsticks have a cooling effect on the lips and and can moisturize. There can also be less transfer. However, because you would be rewetting the lipstick with your saliva, there can be pigment bleeding. Special watertight components are needed to prevent this lipstick from drying out.