Tips on How to Correct/Shade Match Liquid Foundations

Image Source

There are a few ways to test your liquid foundation. First, it is important to draw down some of the liquid foundation on a white piece of paper. This will reveal if there is any streaking. It is important that your liquid foundation not streak because it will not look right on the skin. Second is to look at the liquid foundation on your skin to feel how it applies and also how the shade looks on skin. There is skin tone and there is mass tone. Skin tone is the way the foundation looks on the skin and mass tone is the way the bulk looks. You want the bulk tone to match the skin tone as closely as possible. The mass tone is what the consumer sees (if the foundation is in clear/glass packaging) and this is what they will use to determine which shade they will choose that best matches their skin tone. If the skin tone is dramatically different from the mass tone then you have a problem. To further evaluate the shade, you can draw down the foundation on a lanetta card along side your standard. The black and white on a lanetta card helps to emphasize small differences in the shade and will give you a better idea on what you need to add to match the color. You can also put a sample of your foundation along with a sample of the standard side by side between two microscope slides to also evaluate color.

Shade matching is done at the end of a batch usually at room temperature. When color matching foundations, it is easier to make full formula extenders instead of adding straight pigment to the base. A full formula extender is the base formula with only one pigment instead of the combination of TiO2, yellow IO, red IO, and black IO. So you would have one TiO2 formula extender, one red IO formula extender, one yellow IO formula extender, and one black IO extender. If the shade is too opaque you can use a sericite full formula extender to lose some opacity.

Liquid Foundations

Image: Link source

Liquid foundations are also used to even out skin tone. They are heavier though than a pressed powder foundation and can provide more coverage.

Liquid foundations also use pigmentary TiO2 and iron oxides to provide color. The same ratios used in pressed powders apply to liquid foundations. An American shade is 10-12% pigmentary TiO2 and iron oxides (7% TiO2, 3% yellow iron oxide, 1.75% red iron oxide, and 0.2% black iron oxide). For much darker shades you would use much less pigmentary TiO2 (such as 1%) and a  more yellow, red, and black iron oxide. A Japanese shade contains more TiO2 than an American shade, ~10% TiO2. Though the percentage of each pigment will be different in each shade, you want the overall percentage of TiO2 and pigments to be the same for each shade so each will have the same feel.

Instead of using untreated TiO2 and iron oxides, which are hydrophilic, it is much better to use treated pigments. Treated pigments are easier to incorporate into oils, esters, and silicones. However, it is even better to use pigmentary dispersions than to make your own pigment grinds. The pigment in the dispersions are already well dispersed and the particle size is made small so that the color is more intense. Smaller particles provide for increased light scattering from the increased surface area of the small pigment. Also, a higher concentration of pigment can be incorporated into a dispersion because of the surface treatment on the pigment and manufacturing of the dispersion. You also get less streaking in liquid foundations when all the pigments are wet out, especially the red. Dispersions help in many aspects.

Silicones are frequently used in liquid foundations because of the lubricous feel and slip they provide. Water in silicone foundations dry slower than oil in water foundations and have more play time. If you have water in volatile silicone though, the foundation will dry fast because the silicone evaporates as you rub it out on your skin. Water in volatile silicone foundations also feel lighter on the skin than traditional foundations that do not have volatile.

Sunscreen actives can also be incorporated into a liquid foundation if you want to claim SPF. Film former can be added for long wear. Microspheres can be added to reduce any shininess that remains after its applied not he skin. Microspheres can also improve the feel of the of the liquid foundation on skin by creating more slip and a silky feel.

Cream to Powders

Image: Link Source

Creme to powders are hot pours that are usually anhydrous and usually poured into a pan. Cream to powders are also called wet dry foundations. It feels creamy in the pan but when you apply on the skin it leaves a powdery, light weight feel. Creme to powders always have a liquid (can be silicone, oil, ester, etc), wax, and powder/pigments. Using hydrophobic materials are desired because there will be less issues with bacteria and less color changing issues.

Thin oils and silicone are best to use in this formula. In order to have the powdery after feel, you need a large amount of powder in the formula. Usually there will be as much as 15% TiO2 and several percent iron oxides. In addition, you want to have 20-25% of fillers or microspheres. A large size microsphere will give more of a powdery feel. Always add microspheres at the end. Using surface treated materials will help you to load a high level of powders because oil absorption will be reduced. Be sure though that you are not adding so much powder that the wax structure is negatively affected. You want good structure. Because you have waxes, you want to make sure there is no sweating in the cream to powder. Absorbent microspheres will help to prevent sweating.

Here is a basic formula of a cream to powder:

Phase	%	Ingredient
A	13	Pigmentary TiO2 (treated)
A	6	Mica
A	0.33	Yellow IO (treated)
A	0.33	Red IO (treated)
A	0.1	Black IO (treated)
A	0.1	Methylparaben
A	0.1	Propylparaben
B	29.04	Propylene Glycol Dicapryl/Dicaprate
B	17	Dimethicone
B	9	Ozokerite Wax
C	25	Microsphere
	100

 
Blend Part A until the color is fully developed. Heat Part B while mixing. Add Part A to Part B and mix until homogenous. Add Part C and continue to maintain temperature. Continue to mix and and then cool down a bit and pour into pans. 

I'm back :)

Hi everyone,

Sorry that I haven't posted in months. I'm back now and will try to post regularly so please bear with me.
I appreciate the positive feedback I have received. Thank you for taking the time to read my blog! Please comment and feel free to ask any questions.

Thanks,
CosmeticChemGal