Tuesday, January 28, 2014

Tips on How to Correct/Shade Match Liquid Foundations


There are a few ways to test your liquid foundation. First, it is important to draw down some of the liquid foundation on a white piece of paper. This will reveal if there is any streaking. It is important that your liquid foundation not streak because it will not look right on the skin. Second is to look at the liquid foundation on your skin to feel how it applies and also how the shade looks on skin. There is skin tone and there is mass tone. Skin tone is the way the foundation looks on the skin and mass tone is the way the bulk looks. You want the bulk tone to match the skin tone as closely as possible. The mass tone is what the consumer sees (if the foundation is in clear/glass packaging) and this is what they will use to determine which shade they will choose that best matches their skin tone. If the skin tone is dramatically different from the mass tone then you have a problem. To further evaluate the shade, you can draw down the foundation on a lanetta card along side your standard. The black and white on a lanetta card helps to emphasize small differences in the shade and will give you a better idea on what you need to add to match the color. You can also put a sample of your foundation along with a sample of the standard side by side between two microscope slides to also evaluate color.

Shade matching is done at the end of a batch usually at room temperature. When color matching foundations, it is easier to make full formula extenders instead of adding straight pigment to the base. A full formula extender is the base formula with only one pigment instead of the combination of TiO2, yellow IO, red IO, and black IO. So you would have one TiO2 formula extender, one red IO formula extender, one yellow IO formula extender, and one black IO extender. If the shade is too opaque you can use a sericite full formula extender to lose some opacity.

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