Saturday, September 7, 2013

Organic Sunscreen Actives

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Organic sunscreen actives are carbon based hence the name organic. They are also called chemical sunscreen actives. They work using a different mechanism than inorganic sunscreen actives to protect your skin from the UV rays. Organic sunscreen actives absorb UV radiation, dissipating it as heat, rather than deflect and block as do the inorganic sunscreen actives. Organic sunscreen actives are bothersome for some people causing irritation and allergic reactions. The inorganic sunscreens actives are a better choice if you are sensitive to the organics.

Here is a chart showing all of the organic sunscreen actives as well as the inorganic sunscreens (TiO2 and ZnO).  In addition, this chart shows the maximum concentrations allowed in a finished sunscreen product.
UV-filterOther namesMaximum concentrationPermitted in these countriesResults of safety testing
p-Aminobenzoic acidPABA15% (EC- banned from sale to consumers from 8 October 2009)USA, AUSProtects against skin tumors in mice.[42][43][44] Shown to increase DNA defects, however, and is now less commonly used.
Padimate OOD-PABA, octyldimethyl-PABA, σ-PABA8% (EC,USA,AUS) 10% (JP)
(Not currently supported in EU and may be delisted)
EC, USA, AUS, JPNot tested
Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acidEnsulizole, Eusolex 232, PBSA, Parsol HS4% (US,AUS) 8% (EC) 3% (JP)EC,USA, AUS, JPGenotoxic in bacteria[45]
Cinoxate2-Ethoxyethyl p-methoxycinnamate3% (US) 6% (AUS)USA, AUSNot tested
DioxybenzoneBenzophenone-83%USA, AUSNot tested
OxybenzoneBenzophenone-3, Eusolex 4360, Escalol 5676% (US) 10% (AUS,EU) 5% (JP)EC, USA, AUS, JPNot tested
HomosalateHomomethyl salicylate, HMS10% (EC, JP) 15% (US,AUS)EC, USA, AUS, JPNot tested
Menthyl anthranilateMeradimate5%USA, AUSNot tested
OctocryleneEusolex OCR, 2-Cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylic acid, 2-ethylhexylester10%EC,USA, AUS, JPIncreases ROS[46]
Octyl methoxycinnamateOctinoxate, EMC, OMC, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Escalol 557, 2-Ethylhexyl-paramethoxycinnamate, Parsol MCX7.5% (US) 10% (EC,AUS)20% (JP)EC,USA, AUS, JP
Octyl salicylateOctisalate, 2-Ethylhexyl salicylate, Escalol 587,5% (EC,USA,AUS) 10% (JP)EC,USA, AUS, JPNot tested
Sulisobenzone2-Hydroxy-4-Methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, 3-Benzoyl-4-hydroxy-6-methoxybenzenesulfonic acid, Benzophenone-4, Escalol 5775% (EC) 10% (US, AUS, JP)EC,USA, AUS, JP
Trolamine salicylateTriethanolamine salicylate12%USA, AUSNot tested
Avobenzone1-(4-methoxyphenyl)-3-(4-tert-butyl
phenyl)propane-1,3-dione, Butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, BMDBM, Parsol 1789, Eusolex 9020
3% (US) 5% (EC,AUS)10% (JP)EC, USA, AUS, JPNot available[47]
EcamsuleMexoryl SX, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid10%EC,AUS (US:Approved in certain formulations up to 3% via New Drug Application (NDA) Route)Protects against skin tumors in mice[48][49][50]
Titanium dioxideCI7789125% (No limit Japan)EC,USA, AUS, JPNot tested
Zinc oxide25% (US) 20% (AUS)
(EC-25% provided particle size >100 nm) (Japan, No Limit)
EC,USA, AUS, JPProtects against skin tumors in mice[48]
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There are also several other sunscreen actives that are not approved for use in the US but are approved else where. Most of these sunscreen actives are for UVA protection. 
UV-filterOther namesMaximum concentrationPermitted in
4-Methylbenzylidene camphorEnzacamene, Parsol 5000, Eusolex 6300, MBC4%*EC, AUS
Tinosorb MBisoctrizole, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, MBBT10%*EC, AUS, JP
Tinosorb SBis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenol triazine, Bemotrizinol, BEMT, anisotriazine10% (EC, AUS) 3% (JP)*EC, AUS, JP
Neo Heliopan APBisdisulizole Disodium, Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, bisimidazylate, DPDT10%EC, AUS
Mexoryl XLDrometrizole Trisiloxane15%EC, AUS
Benzophenone-9Uvinul DS 49, CAS 3121-60-6, Sodium Dihydroxy Dimethoxy Disulfobenzophenone [53]10%JP
Uvinul T 150Octyl triazone, ethylhexyl triazone, EHT5% (EC, AUS) 3% (JP)*EC, AUS
Uvinul A PlusDiethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate10% (EC,JP)EC, JP
Uvasorb HEBIscotrizinol, Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, DBT10% (EC) 5% (JP) *EC, JP
Parsol SLXDimethico-diethylbenzalmalonate, Polysilicone-1510%EC, AUS, JP
Isopentenyl-4-methoxycinnamateIsoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate, IMC, Neo Heliopan E1000, Amiloxate10% *EC, AUS

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Here is a chart showing the UVB and UVA protection ability of sunscreen actives. You will see that Zinc Oxide protects against both UVB and UVA radiation. 
FDA Sunscreen Ingredients UVA / UVB list
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PABA is very irritating and is not used much anymore. In the USA, TiO2 and ZnO cannot be used with avobenzone. If you do work with avobenzone be aware that it can make the sunscreen yellow. TiO2 reacts with avobenzone and makes the formula yellow. 

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